Advertisment The J frame revolver is a very classic design. It was one of the first widely accepted concealed carry guns and the remains a popular choice. Revolvers are simple right? How exactly can you make such an old design better? Well, you can make the frame polymer.

Ruger LCR 9mm Revolver Review: Reliability, Price, Specs & More

Ruger LCR 9mm Revolver Review: Reliability, Price, Specs & MoreAdvertisment The J frame revolver is a very classic design. It was one of the first widely accepted concealed carry guns and the remains a popular choice. Revolvers are simple right? How exactly can you make such an old design better? Well, you can make the frame polymer. I already hear the Fudds light their torches, how dare I bring plastic to the world of wheel guns. Well, I didn’t personally, but Ruger, S&W and even Taurus have. Today we are looking at the Ruger LCR 9mm . It’s already a weird gun being a polymer frame revolver, but then we are going to chamber it into a cartridge designed for automatic pistols. Why polymer? It makes the gun lighter, way lighter than an all-metal gun. Some metal like Scandium is super light, and the S&W Airweight line is proof that they work, but damn are they expensive. A polymer revolver is lightweight and plenty affordable. The Ruger LCR is by far my favorite modern J frame revolver. It incorporates everything that is good with the J frame design, as well as modernizing it. Contents Overview Specifications Features Fit and Finish Ergonomics On the Range Rating Each Category Parting Shots Overview The Ruger LCR 9mm is a concealed carry gun. It’s small, lightweight, and perfect for daily carry. The design of the J frame has always been for a lighter, lower profile gun in a reliable platform. Revolvers back in the day were the smallest powerhouses you could get. Remember the Colt 1903? That was a 380. It was massive for a 380 and chambered in a somewhat anemic round. The J frame was smaller and chambered in the popular and more powerful 38 Special. This model takes it a step forward and chambers it in the even more potent 9mm round. LCR even stands for Lightweight, Compact, Revolver, which is a very appropriate name for the gun. The brand Ruger is a well-known and well-respected brand, with many different firearms that have a lot of influence behind it. If it were any smaller company, the idea would be laughed off the table. Ruger started something awesome with this gun and what started with a simple 38 Special has grown into a variety of different designs and in different calibers. This leads us to the 9mm variant. Why would I choose a revolver is a cartridge made specifically for an automatic? Well, first because of America! I wanted a revolver and the fact I could choose one in a caliber I already own and shoot a ton of was just a convenience factor. Also, 9mm is way cheaper than 38 Special and more potent overall. You can find a wider variety of defensive rounds for the 9mm as well. To me it just made sense. Specifications The Ruger LCR is a nice small gun that is perfect for even the smallest person to conceal and carry comfortably. Barrel Length – 1.87 inches Overall Length – 6.5 inches Height – 5.5 inches Weight – 17.2 ounces Capacity – 5 rounds Features The Ruger LCR is a modern revolver but is still just a revolver. This model is a double-action-only revolver that has a concealed hammer. You aren’t going to find a wide variety of different features on this gun, but its what’s on the inside that counts. Inside the Ruger is their patented friction-reducing cam. This gives you one of the best DA triggers on the market. The Ruger LCR does have a metal cylinder and a metal barrel liner surrounded by polymer. Most of the gun is a polymer, but there is plenty of steel components where it counts and where they are needed. The LCR is matte black, but they do have a variety of different finishes available from different distributors. The cylinder is of course cut for full moon clips. These clips are there to accommodate automatic cartridges. Since the 9mm round doesn’t have a pronounced rim, the gun has nothing to grip and eject the rounds from. The moon clip adds what is essentially a rim that allows the ejector to engage the rounds. The gun comes with three of these, and they are widely available and quite affordable. Best of all they can be used as speed loaders for on the fly reloads. In fact, to me, these moon clips are much faster than a speed loader. Competitors agree, and you’ll find standard 38 Special, and 357 Magnum revolvers cut for moon clips too. The Ruger comes with a black polymer sight with a white insert to increase visibility. This sight is pinned on and easily removed and replaced by a night sight, or high viz fiber optic sight. The grips are Hogue Tamers which are made of a soft rubber overall. Fit and Finish This revolver is ugly. Sorry, but a polymer frame revolver does lose some of that sexiness associated with a rich blue finish or a beautiful stainless steel gun. From a vanity point that is a bad thing, but as a concealed carry gun it doesn’t matter. It’s meant to be concealed and not seen anyway. It’s the Glock of revolvers. The cylinder shows hints of that old world revolver with it’s rich and glossy PVD finish. PVD is a tough and strong finish that is perfect for this gun in general. Concealed carry guns are held tight to the body, the body sweats, what does sweat do? It destroys things, and PVD prevents that. The Ruger LCR label across the barrel doesn’t bother me, but the Read Instruction manual on the other side does. It’s dumb, and lawyers ruin everything. As I mentioned before the grip is great. The cylinder locks up extremely tight, and the cylinder release button is quick and easy to access. Overall the gun is well built and looks as good as a mutt can look. Ergonomics The Ruger LCR 9mm is a small and convenient little gun, but small guns always have a few big problems. Small guns sacrifice controllability and comfort for concealment. That’s my first issue with the gun, and the grip is too small for my big hands. It’s usable, but I hate my pinky hanging so switched for some slightly longer and thinner Hogue grips. I have to judge the gun as a stock gun though, and it needs to be noted. Beyond that, the gun is easy to use. One of the best features of any revolver is the fact that they are superbly simple guns. It doesn’t take long to long how one functions. The thumb can reach and press the cylinder release button with ease, and the slight tilt or push allows the cylinder to slide out. Loading the gun via moon clip is very easy to do and easily one of the most ergonomic ways to reload a revolver period. It’s almost identical to reloading an automatic with a magazine. Eject the empties, dop in the moon clip, and get back to shooting. It’s very quick and easy to do. The fact that all of the cases are combined with the moon clip means they all fall out at the same time. Revolvers can fail to eject every round using just the ejector rod perfectly. Sometimes you grab one or two of the casings and clear them yourself. This isn’t an issue with the Ruger LCR 9mm. On the Range Shooting the Ruger LCR 9mm is a lot of fun. Revolvers are just cool guns, and the J frame history of being a detective’s gun always appeals to me. Shooting one is a challenge, almost the direct opposite of using one. Shooting is mechanically easy. Pull the trigger, and it goes bang. However, these guns are tricky to shoot accurately. The front sight is pleasant, but the trench rear sight is pitiful. This makes shots beyond 25 yards challenging even on man-sized targets for a lot of shooters. At the average self-defense range it’s easy to place shots into the chest and torso area of a target. Even rapidly so. One significant benefit of this gun is that excellent trigger. In my opinion, the Ruger LCR has the best stock double-action revolver trigger on the market. It’s 9 pounds apparently but feels much lighter and its incredibly smooth. There is very little stacking, and the trigger breaks cleanly. Recoil wise the 9mm falls between a 357 Magnum and a 38 Special. It’s much less painful than a 357 Magnum but has a little more oomph than a 38 Special. Standard 115 grain FMJs are comfortable and easy to shoot. Higher powered 124-grain JHPs are a bit more of a handful. The good news is with 9mm you can easily find reduced recoil 9mm defensive loads. The gun is somewhat ammo picky. First, 9mm rounds don’t have the crimp a standard revolver round has. This can cause the recoil of the gun to eject the projectile from the cartridge. This happens with heavier rounds and in my experience has only happened with one 147 grain round one time. Next, the gun will handle steel cased rounds but they tend to swell, and this makes them somewhat difficult to eject. Not impossible, but bring a pencil to poke them out. Other than that the gun is plenty reliable and capable. I do find it fun to shoot the gun and then speed reload. With a little practice, I got pretty fast, and it is fun to shoot and use this revolver as a defensive firearm. My favorite drill is a failure to stop on two targets. The drill requires six shots, two in the chest and one in the head of each target. This drill forces a reload with the Ruger LCR 9mm and is plenty challenging. The Ruger LCR 9mm is a fun gun and its an effective one for self-defense. If you are dead set on a revolver for concealed carry the Ruger LCR 9mm is a modern, lightweight, and affordable choice. "Rating Each Category" Looks: 3 out of 5 It’s like an ugly herding dog. It’s ugly, but it works well. It’s hard to hate on something that works as hard as this gun does. The Ruger LCR isn’t a bad looking gun, and I could add an entire extra point if I didn’t have to see the words “Read Instruction Manual.” On the other side. Ergonomics: 4 out of 5 The ergos are simple but reliable. The short grip of the gun takes a solid point away. Everything pops, clicks and opens with ease. The means of reloading the LCR are a major plus when it comes to this gun. This modern take on the classic revolver is impressive. Accuracy: 3 out of 5 With a 1.87 inch barrel, this is about as accurate as it’s going to get. The short barrel, short sight radius, and crappy sights are a bit detriment to this gun’s accuracy. However, the trigger is amazing, and this certainly lends to the gun’s accuracy and ease of use. Reliability: 4 out of 5 It’s a revolver, so reliability is very high already, it’s also a revolver made from a reputable company. So why doesn’t it score a 5 out of 5? Well, there is the potential for the projectile to unseat from the case. 5 out of 5 is perfect, and even if it never happens again, it happened once, and that’s enough for me. Customization: 2 out of 5 Again, I feel like I can start most of these with, “It’s a revolver,” Revolvers aren’t known for being highly customizable. This gun has a wide variety of grip available for it, as well as front sights, and holsters. This gives you a little opportunity to customize the gun. Price: 3 out of 5 The Ruger LCR is generally a cheap revolver, and the 9mm model is a bit more expensive. The standard LCR can be found for about $450, and the 9mm model costs about $550. This is a bit of a gap for me, but it’s still an affordable gun in my opinion when compared to other higher priced firearms, like Sigs . Parting Shots The Ruger LCR 9mm is one of the most modern revolvers on the market. It’s light, easy to conceal and features the best stock DA trigger on the market. The LCR 9mm is an odd gun, but the 9mm round is a great defensive cartridge, even in a revolver. Many find small 357s too powerful and then the 38 Special is a bit anemic, but the 9mm is like Goldilocks’ porridge, just right.

How to Build an AR-15 Upper Receiver Flash Hider Installation

How to Build an AR-15 Upper Receiver  Flash Hider Installation

If you’re following our AR-15 upper build how-to, we’re ready for the last step: installing a muzzle device (flash hider, muzzle brake or compensator). Fortunately, it is a simple process and I am going to share with you exactly how I do it, step by step. There is an incredible amount of muzzle devices currently available on the market, but for simplicity’s sake, I will be covering how to install a typical A2 “birdcage” style flash hider. For the most part, almost all muzzle devices can be installed using the same basic techniques I will discuss in this guide. Items Needed A2 flash hider Crush washer ¾” wrench or armorer’s tool Bench vise Upper receiver vise block AeroShell 33MS grease Installing the Muzzle Device In my opinion, the most important part of this process is making sure your barrel and upper receiver are held securely in a vise . This is important because you will be placing a decent amount of torque on the end of the barrel and you do not want it to move. You may opt to clamp your barrel directly in the vise or use an AR-15 upper receiver vise block. I recently obtained a Geissele Reaction Rod and recommend it because it only applies torque to the barrel extension rather than the aluminum upper receiver. Here you can see how the crush washer goes over the barrel threads followed by the flash hider. Image courtesy of the technical manual . Once you have your barrel and AR-15 upper receiver secured, install the crush washer with the small end against the barrel and the large end flaring outward. Now, liberally apply some AeroShell 33MS to the threads of the barrel and hand tighten the flash hider. Make sure that the 3rd slot is in direct line with the front sight post or gas tube. Image courtesy of the technical manual . Using a ¾” wrench, tighten the flash hider until the third slot is facing straight up and is in direct line with the font sight post or gas tube. This procedure is called “timing.” By making sure you line everything up correctly, you are “timing” your flash hider. When using a crush washer, do not tighten/rotate the muzzle device more than 450 degrees when installing it. If you cannot properly time your flash hider within that value then remove your flash hider and crush washer and start over with a new crush washer. If you are having trouble rotating your muzzle device to get it to time correctly, try this: loosen it, re-tighten it and then repeat until you get it lined up the way it should be. Also, a bit of advice from experience: do not over tighten your muzzle device. Tighten it just until proper timing is achieved and then leave it. Your AR-15 upper receiver is now complete and is ready for you to install your rail, attach your optic and accessories—congrats! Featured image courtesy of Damage Industries .

The 4 Best Scopes for M1A – Scout & Standard Model Reviews 2020 Photo by Keary O. / CC BY General George S. Patton famously called the M1 Garand rifle the “greatest battle implement ever devised.” By 1945, the whole world had come to know the power and efficiency of the M1 Garand rifle. However, the whole world had also come to know something else. Removable magazine weapons ruled the day. WWII had shown that firepower was king, and that rifles without removable large capacity magazines were on their way out. Faced with this, the US Army eventually fielded the venerable M14 rifle. Essentially an M1 Garand in 7.62 NATO instead of .30-06, and fitted with a 20 round removable magazine, the M14 was the last of the great thirty caliber battle rifles issued by the United States government. As with all military rifles, the United States shooting public has demanded their own civilian versions, and the gun industry has obliged. The Springfield Armory M1A is a semi automatic M14 style rifle that at its heart is still that greatest battle implement ever designed but built to take removable magazines. Because the .308/7.62 NATO (no, we are not going to get into the argument over the minor differences between rounds here) is one of the most popular rifle cartridges in the world, when combined with the rock solid reliability of the M14 platform, it is no wonder people often ask what is the best scope for M1A Scout and Standard models? Match Grade Optics for Serious Work Nikon P-308 Matte BDC 800 Rifle Scopes, 4-16X42mm Price: Price as of 08/14/2020 09:12 PDT (more info) Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product. The M1A style rifle has long been used for one of the most demanding and well known service competitions in the nation. Rifles built to National Match standards are accepted as being the pinnacle of service rifle construction and precision. If you have a National Match rifle or simple demand match grade quality in your rifle and optics, then the Nikon P 308 is the best M1A scope for you. Built to demanding standards of precision and featuring turrets calibrated for match grade 168 grain 7.62 NATO and .308 ammo, the P 308 is built with only one aim in mind, and that is giving you a scope every bit as top notch as your rifle. P-308 4-16x42 SF Matte BDC 800 Watch this video on YouTube

How To: Properly Sight In The AK

How To: Properly Sight In The AK

/* custom css */ { text-align: left; } img { margin: 0 auto 0 0; } Shooting an AK, or any gun for that matter, is only fun if you hit your targets. And to hit intended targets, one must know how to properly sight in the AK. The AK's aiming system has an adjustable front sight and a fixed rear that has a provision for range adjustment. The rear sight ranging system consists of a spring-loaded cylinder that slides on a sight leaf and can be positioned on pre-set marks representing 100-meter adjustments. All sighting-in procedures are performed on the front sight only with a sight adjustment tool. Elevation is adjusted by screwing the front post in or out; windage is adjusted by shifting the cylinder in which the sight post is screwed. Elevation is adjusted first, moving the post up for a POI that is high and down for POI that is low. The AK aiming system contains an adjustable front sight and a non-adjustable rear sight that has a provision for range adjustment. If one takes a look at the front sight of an AK, it appears like a straightforward post sight with protective hood. The post is screwed into the cylinder that is pressed into the front sight block. Both the threads on the sight post and the cylinder will come into play a bit later. The rear AK sight is a conventional “U” slot type and made out of a solid piece of steel. It is hinged on the rear sight block of the rifle and has gradations representing 100-meter range adjustments. A spring-loaded cylinder slides on the rear sight leaf and can be positioned at any of the pre-set marks, elevating the sight to adjust for the desired range. For example, if the target is set at 400 meters, the rear sight cylinder is moved to the position marked “4.” There is also a setting marked “П” or “P” for some of the European AK models or “D” for some Chinese. This represents the “Permanent” or “Battle” setting that falls somewhere between 300-400 meters, which is considered to be an average engagement range. To aim an AK rifle one simply shoulders it and sights the aiming eye over the top of the gun. The shooter can close or squint the other eye. Most advanced shooters keep both eyes open during firing. In the case of novice shooters, the idle eye should be taken out of action by closing it or squinting. Related GunDigest Articles The New FN 15 Tactical .300 BLK Rifle The AK: Rifle for the Motherland New Rifle: Mossberg MMR Tactical Vortex Red/Green Dot Combo Using a small and smooth movement with cheek firmly resting on the gun’s stock and the stock itself firmly pressed into the shooter’s shoulder, the front and rear sight have to be positioned in such a way that the front sight post is even with the rear sight’s upper edge and is centered in the middle of the “U” slot. All that’s left to do is position the aligned sights over a clearly visible target. The proper way to aim with the AK is to position the sights or point of aim (POA) at the lower edge of the 12-inch round target set at 100 meters. This should produce hits or point of impact (POI) at the center of target. If the deviation between POA and POI is more then 6 inches vertically, i.e., it is less or more than 6 inches or any distance away from the vertical centerline, the AK rifle needs to be sighted in. All of the sighting-in procedures are performed on the front sight only. Elevation or vertical adjustment is done by screwing the front post in or out using a sight adjustment tool provided in the gun’s tool kit . The windage, or horizontal adjustment, is done by shifting the cylinder into which the front sight post is screwed. Note that all of the front sight adjustments for the purpose of sighting in a rifle are done in the direction of deviations. i.e., if the gun shoots low, the front sight needs to be lowered or screwed in, and it needs to be raised or unscrewed if the POI is high. It is the same with the windage adjustments. If all of the hits impact too far left, the post must be moved left to bring POI to the center. The sighting of the AK can be done without any special tool except those provided with the gun. First, the elevation is adjusted by installing a target at the 100-meter range and moving the rear sight elevation adjustment cylinder to the setting “1.” After a series of shots, the vertical POI deviation from POA is established. If it is outside of prescribed parameters, the adjustment is made by screwing in or lowering the front sight post for low impacts, and unscrewing or lifting the post for high impacts.

The 4 Best Entrenching Tools – Reviews 2020 Photo by Naval History & Heritage Command / CC BY An entrenching tool can be one of the most valuable tools that you have in a survival situation.  Not only are they lightweight and compact enough to be easily carried around in your pack when out in the wilderness, but they also make things a whole lot easier when it comes to building shelters and sanitation trenches, for digging holes, and if necessary, in a self-defense situation.  Keep in mind that many survival entrenching tools come equipped with a serrated blade for cutting and for defensive use. In this article, we’re going to go over 4 of the best entrenching tools on the market, and then we’ll discuss the qualities that you should look for in the top entrenching tools. Fobachi Military Folding Shovel FOBACHI 12 in 1 Folding Shovel Pickax Kit/Entrenching Tool for Digging Car Gardening Camping Backpacking Hiking, Survival Surplus, Emergency Spade Shovel Gear (Shovel 208C) Price: Price as of 08/14/2020 03:45 PDT (more info) Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product. This is a light and compact shovel that serves a multitude of functions that make it a more than viable option as a survival entrenching tool.  This shovel is extraordinarily easy to pack because the handle folds not once, but twice.  Furthermore, the shovel ships with a carrying pouch that can latch directly on to a belt. But don’t mistake the overall small size of this shovel (see full specs ) as a dip in quality.  The blade is constructed out of a strong forged steel with a serrated blade on one side that can easily saw through branches.  The pointed tip on the edge of the blade allows it to dig deeply and sharply into the earth for digging holes and trenches. Multi-functional Mini "Military Folding Shovel" - BLACK Watch this video on YouTube

Best Beginner Hunting Rifles

Trending: Best Places to Buy Ammo Online and [Buyer's Guide] 7 Best AR-15s Hunters like to sound like poets. Get us talking about our favorite hunt and things take on a mystical romanticism real fast, like someone wrote a sequel to The Alchemist based in Montana. But hunters have a secret: we’re poets in the field, but when it comes to buying gear, we’re about as poetic as a Black Friday stampede. We love gear. Reading about it, trying it, buying it, showing it off, snagging deals — the whole thing. And there’s no gear we obsess over more than our rifles. Fortunately, the differences between good modern rifles are usually tiny. Any of the options below will serve you well for many years. The main variable is what you want to hunt, so we’ll split this into four sections: small game, medium game, big game, and dangerous game. Scopes & Optics Before the rifles, let’s discuss optics to put on them. Beyond about 100 yards, most shooters will have trouble making ethical shots with iron sights. And even inside that range, optics will help keep you more accurate. For a beginner rifle, a few hundred dollars will buy you perfectly good optics. You won’t get the fancy features that are on the multi-thousand-dollar scopes from the likes of US Optics or Nightforce , but you’re years of experience away from needing those. Let’s discuss options. Bushnell TRS-25 TRS-25 For around $80, the TRS-25 is ideal if you want a non-magnified red dot sight. Long-range hunting requires magnification, so in most cases, this would just be for your .2 LR small game rifle. Vortex Crossfire II 2-7x32mm Crossfire II 2-7x32mm The Crossfire II is perfect if you’d prefer a magnified optic (or just want a traditional scope) for your .22 LR rifle. It’s very affordable at $130, light, has high-quality glass for this price point, and the 2-7x zoom is a good range for the distances you’ll be shooting .22 LR at. For bigger-game rifles, you’ll get more mileage out of a somewhat fancier scope like the two options below. Vortex Diamondback 3-9x40mm Diamondback The Diamondback is the next step up from the Crossfire in Vortex’s line, and it’s a good compromise between price (right around $200) and fanciness. It will work great on an all-around rifle for medium or big game. I’d recommend 3-9x as the best all-around zoom range, and the 40mm objective lens (that’s the lens on the end of the scope that you don’t look into) will gather a lot of light without being too bulky. If you know you’re going to exclusively be doing long-range hunting, a 4-12x zoom range may be a better fit for you. Leupold VX-1 VX-1 The Leupold VX-1 in 3-9x40mm is also around $200 and is the classic choice for an all-around scope. Reliable, rugged, high-quality glass, and a company with a long history of making good optics. Ask an old-timer for a recommendation, and Leupold is probably what they’ll say. They’re not wrong. Small Game Hunting Rifles The small-game caliber to stick to is .22 LR. It’s very cheap and is found in a huge variety of rifles. You can use it hunt squirrels, rabbits, and similar-size animals. Here are the best beginner rifles to consider in .22LR. Ruger 10/22 Ruger 10/22 Wood People are quick to recommend the Ruger 10/22 (“ten-twenty-two”) , but less quick to explain exactly why. It’s small and light, which makes it easy for people of any age or size to handle. It comes in a version to suit any style or application (even a takedown version that breaks down into two small pieces, perfect for packing on a camping trip). It’s very inexpensive — most models come in just over $300. For hunting, I’d recommend the 10/22 Compact or Carbine with a wood stock because of their maneuverability and classic looks. For backcountry hunting, consider the 10/22 Takedown for its packability. Tech Sights for Ruger 10/22 And because of the 10/22’s popularity, there’s a huge aftermarket for it. It’s easy to find upgraded sights ( Tech Sight’s aperture sight is our top recommendation), slings (like the classic GI sling ), and even smoother and lighter triggers to improve your accuracy. If you only ever own one small game rifle, it should be the 10/22. Smith & Wesson M&P 15-22 Sport M&P 15-22 Sport A few years ago, this would have a strange recommendation. But AR-pattern rifles have become the best-selling ones in the US, and with that, prices have dropped and the accessories aftermarket has boomed. As a result, the M&P 15-22 Sport is now a great small game rifle. It’s light, reliable, has trivial recoil, and holds enough ammo in the magazine for a long day of hunting. And the adjustable stock makes it easy for people of different sizes to share a rifle. You’ll find it in gun stores for a bit over $400. The Picatinny rail on top is a great universal mounting surface for optics. Since this is a light-recoil gun that you’ll generally only be shooting inside of 100 yards, just go for an high-quality entry-level optic. The Bushnell TRS-25 or Vortex Crossfire II 2-7x32mm described above are both good choices. Henry Golden Boy Henry Golden Boy This is less common, but if we’re talking about .22 LR rifles, it would be a shame not to at least consider the Henry Golden Boy . This is arguably the highest-quality lever-action small game rifle on the market, and it’s a bargain at about $450. Accurate and very reliable, it’s great for hunting and fun for target practice in between trips to the field. The cowboy looks of it are timeless too, which certainly doesn’t hurt. All-Around & Medium "Game Hunting Rifles" This is the rifle you’ll do most of your hunting with. It’ll cover you for anything from hogs and small deer all the way up to elk or even inland black bears. I’ll recommend specific rifles below, but caliber is a separate — and hotly debated — question. What you want is a cartridge that comes in a variety of bullet weights, is easy to find at reasonable prices, has enough power to hunt a wide variety of animals, and shoots accurately, fast, and flat. You’ll find lots of candidates out there, but I’d point you towards the 7mm-08 Remington, .270 Winchester, or .308 Winchester. The differences between the calibers aren’t worth discussing here, and any of them will serve you well. Just pick one and practice your shooting! Savage Axis II XP Axis II XP The Axis II XP by Savage Arms is perhaps the best value in bolt-action rifles today. For about $450, you get a reliable, light, accurate rifle. Can’t ask for much more than that. For anyone on a strict budget, this should be the first rifle you look at. Tikka T3 Lite Tikka T3 Lite Stainless For a little more money at around $700, put the T3 Lite in .308 at the top of your list.  Stainless steel models will keep it from rusting in wet conditions, and all Tikka rifles leave the factory with a guarantee that with good ammo, they’ll put all your shots inside a 1” circle at 100 yards (1 MOA). The build quality and features like a great recoil pad are the best you’ll find in this price range. Once you get into the $1500+ price range, you will find rifles that are lighter or slightly more accurate. But for less than that, the T3 Lite is the one to go with.  Also available in left-handed models too! Big Game Hunting Rifles If you’ll be hunting even bigger animals, like moose or big elk, your all-around rifle may not carry enough power to make ethical shots — it’s important to have a rifle that will kill the animal quickly and cleanly. Shot placement is of course paramount, but caliber does matter too. For accuracy, and the best balance of power and recoil, I’d recommend the .300 Winchester Magnum or it’s shorter-but-roughly-equal cousin the .300 WSM. Kimber Montana Kimber Montana The Tikka T3 Lite Stainless is also excellent in these bigger calibers, but for a few hundred dollars more (total price around $1100), the Kimber Montana adds a few nice-to-haves. It has a three-position safety, which lets you cycle the bolt without taking the gun off of safe. The fit-and-finish is slightly better (notwithstanding some occasional quality control problems that Kimber has had). And it’s three ounces lighter than the Tikka. All small things, so the Tikka may still be the way to go. Get the Kimber if those nice-to-haves are important to you. Or get it if you like the look of it! The fact that we often buy guns based on their looks is a well-kept secret among hunters, but hey, you have to like your equipment. Dangerous (or Big Big) Game Hunting Rifles Your next question may sound something like, “Beginner rifles are fine, but what happens when I go out for Kodiak bear? What do I take for Sasquatch? Suppose I’m attacked by a lion riding an angry hippo — what then?” There are rifles for that too! Here are three options for the next time Ernest Hemingway invites you on safari. Kimber Caprivi Kimber Caprivi .373 H&H, .338 Winchester Magnum Chambered in the timeless .375 H&H Magnum, the Kimber Caprivi has the classic looks of a dangerous game rifle, and handy features like a 1-inch recoil pad and three-position safety. At 8 lbs 10 oz, it’s also relatively portable for rifles in this caliber. The built-in iron sights are an important detail if you need to get a shot off quickly, since it’s quicker to get iron sights on a target than to find a moving (potentially charging) animal in a magnified scope. It’s a fairly expensive, around $2700 in most stores. Montana Rifle Company Danger Game Rifle Dangerous Game Rifle Less expensive than the Kimber at just about $1900, the DGR is a modern-style take on the same concept. It stays away from the Caprivi’s classic look, adds iron sights that are removable (and can be replaced with a scope), and also adds a muzzle brake (which makes the gun a lot louder, but reduces recoil by 35-50%). Finally, it features the same three-position safety as the Kimber. It’s available in six different calibers. If you’ll be using it inside of 200 yards, go with .416 Rigby. If you want to shoot it well beyond that, choose .338 Lapua Magnum. Custom Rifle from James Purdey &; Sons "James Purdey &" ; Sons BIG Calibers Do you like the other guns but hate having money? Then consider a double rifle from Purdey, who have been building fine rifles and shotguns in London since 1814. The two barrels give you two shots faster than any bolt-action gun will, and the entire gun, from internals to wood to engravings, is made by hand to your specifications. But keep an eye on it in camp — prices start around $50,000 and climb well into six figures depending on the details you order. Conclusion It’s fun to talk about gear, but in a pinch I could reduce this whole article to one sentence: a Ruger 10/22 and a Tikka T3 Lite (in 7mm-08, .270 Winchester, or .308 Winchester) will cover almost any non-bird hunting you’ll ever do. Get one of each, put good optics on them, and you’re set. Then get out to the range and practice. Need a good scope?  Check out our Best Rifle Scopes article.


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